Where's the Communism?

On the way back from the rural town of Zhujiajiao, we drove past a gigantic billboard next to a tollbooth.  Starting with a Shanghai skyline picture and ending in a set of tall, cookiecutter apartment buildings, the sprawling text was the first absolute evidence that we’re in a country that still espouses Communism: “Make efforts to build a greater socialistic progressive society!  Speed up the urbanization of the Qingpu District!”

Earlier that day, the Jing’an Temple unveiled a giant new pillared statue.  It couldn’t go without an extravagant ceremony, complete with rows of government and temple dignitaries (keep in mind that almost all religious organizations require government permission to operate), giving speeches in front of a large backdrop.  It took several minutes just to make sure the name placards were placed on the tables in exactly the right order.  It brought to my mind the tightly-structured Communist Party conferences, with giant slogans and rows and rows of higher-ups.

Beyond that, though, there have been very few overt signs of totalitarianism—in its place is something that leaders call “capitalism with Chinese characteristics.” Customs was a breeze, the police seem relatively passive, daily life goes on, and the late Chairman Mao has been relegated to a statue or two as well as the fronts of all our cash.  One theory is that Shanghai is the most Western of Chinese cities, and Beijing holds a different story.  We shall see later this week.