A handful of companies — think Tyson and Perdue — all but control poultry production in the U.S. They’ll soon be joined by a retailer known more for selling rotisserie chickens: Costco, which is building a farm-to-table system based in Nebraska to supply itself.

In her new book “In Meat We Trust,” author Maureen Ogle argues the meat industry has evolved into what it is today because that’s what consumers asked for.